Biei, in the middle of Hokkaido, is famous for its rolling patchwork hills and the Blue Pond. Fifteen minutes by car from Biei Station, in the quiet farming district of Ronennai, sits RONENAI BASE — a small lodge with a wood-fired bath and a private sauna, opened in July 2025. Its café lunch is open to non-guests, and the dish to order is the black curry made with Hokkaido pork.
I visited Biei for work, and a local colleague tipped me off: “A new café opened recently, and the curry is excellent.” On a clear day, with the Daisetsuzan mountains in sharp view, I drove out to try it.
What is RONENAI BASE?
RONENAI BASE is a small accommodation built around two things: a wood-fired bath and a bookable private sauna. It opened in July 2025, so everything still feels new. Word has been spreading among sauna lovers and nature seekers, and it is also popular with people on workations in the area. It is about 15 minutes by car from Biei Station, and roughly the same from the center of Higashikawa, so it fits easily into a day of sightseeing.
Good news for day-trippers: you do not need to be staying overnight to eat here. The café serves lunch (and dinner) to outside guests as well.
The place: quiet, wooden, unhurried
The building has the calm look of rural Hokkaido. There is no flashy signboard — if you did not know it was there, you might drive straight past. Parking is available next to the building (6 cars), with more space a short walk away.
Inside, around 15 seats are spaced generously. The interior uses a lot of wood and feels warm without trying too hard to be stylish. It is the kind of room where a slow afternoon just happens.
The menu: an easy decision
The lunch menu is short and focused, and one line caught my eye immediately: Black Curry with Hokkaido Pork (¥1,050, tax included, at the time of my visit). Black curry is usually associated with beef or seafood ink; a version built on local Hokkaido pork is unusual, and I ordered it without hesitation.
Tasting the black curry
First impression: a deep, glossy black
The curry arrives a deep brown-black — not the jet black of squid ink, but the glossy, dark sheen of a demi-glace sauce. The local pork sits generously in the thick roux poured over rice.
Flavor: deep, bittersweet, gently spiced
The first spoonful is all depth. The spices are present but not loud; what stands out is the sweetness and slight bitterness of onions cooked down for a long time, layered with a rich, savory base. The heat is mild and builds slowly, so even if you are not a fan of spicy food, this is an easy bowl to finish.
The pork is tender and has soaked up the roux, and the natural sweetness of Hokkaido pork fat plays beautifully against the bitterness of the curry. Served with fluffy Hokkaido rice, it adds up to a plate that feels like careful home cooking taken several steps further — a completely different depth from chain-restaurant curry.
Where to stay in the Biei–Asahikawa area
RONENAI BASE is a lodge as well as a café, and guests rate it highly (it held a 9.2 rating on Booking.com at the time of my visit). If you are combining Biei with Asahikawa — an easy pairing, since Asahikawa Airport is the gateway — these are the two services I use to book stays in the area:
- Booking.com — the largest hotel booking site, and the one that lists RONENAI BASE itself.
- Agoda — strong coverage across Asia, with frequent last-minute deals in Hokkaido.
Note: some links on this page are affiliate links.
Practical information
| Name | RONENAI BASE |
|---|---|
| Address | Ronennai, Biei, Kamikawa District, Hokkaido, Japan |
| Phone | +81-166-76-7895 |
| Hours | 11:00–16:00 / 17:30–21:00 (last order for food 20:00) |
| Closed | Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday |
| Access | About 15 minutes by car from Biei Station; about 15 minutes from central Higashikawa. A rental car is recommended. |
| Parking | Yes — 6 spaces next to the building, plus additional space nearby |
| @ronenaibase |
FAQ
Can I visit just for lunch?
Yes. The café welcomes non-guests for lunch and dinner.
When is it closed?
Tuesday to Thursday. Weekends, Mondays and Fridays are your best bet — and it is worth checking the latest opening information before you go.
Do I need a car?
Practically, yes. It is about 15 minutes by car from Biei Station, and there is parking on site.
The verdict
There is no tourist bustle here, and that is exactly the charm. A carefully made black curry with local pork, a wood-warmed room, and the hills of Biei outside — if you are passing through the area, RONENAI BASE is well worth the short detour. Just remember the Tuesday–Thursday closing days when you plan.
— Read this article in Japanese: 美瑛の隠れ家カフェ「RONENAI BASE」の道産豚の黒カレーを実食
Prices and opening hours were correct at the time of the visit and may have changed. Please check before visiting.
